Photography Basics Part IV: What Lens is Good for What?

Hello hello! Thanks for tuning in to this week's episode of...TwoFeetPhoto. Today, we will be talking about camera equipment - namely, lenses. Which camera lenses do you need? What are they for? Eager to find out? Read on!

You may want to click here for links to my other Photography Basics articles.

First: a disclaimer about focal length. Most digital cameras, including the one I shoot with, are half sensor cameras. Because the image is recorded on a sensor that is half the size, there is an extra magnification factor. Thus, on half sensor cameras, the actual focal length of a lens is 1.5X what it says on the box. As a result, it can be difficult to get wide angle views on half sensor cameras because the effective focal length of a lens (unless it is designed specifically for a half sensor camera) is increased by half.

15mm - 100mm

Lenses in this range are best for landscape, architecture, and (human or pet) portraiture. Lenses at the low end of this range can produce wide angle "fisheye" effects, which may or may not be desirable.

Lenses like these are best for subjects that are large or not very far away; they have shorter focal lengths. These types of lenses do not suffer as much from motion blur because they do not have the magnification power of longer lenses.

100 - 200mm

This in-between lens length is generally best for large mammal photography, but can also be used for sports, travel, and landscape photography.

These lenses will not have enough magnification power to capture smaller or more flighty animals, such as birds. This is also the focal length at which you need to start worrying about motion blur, as the higher magnification power of the lens will also magnify unwanted movements of the camera. Remember, you should aim for your shutter speed to be greater than the focal length of your lens, or (better) use a tripod.

300mm - 600mm

This is animal photography range, including birds. Larger and less shy birds should be easy to photograph from 300, but if you are photographing animals that are very small or very far away, you will want to invest in the 600mm glass. Oh yeah, and you will need a tripod.

Lenses in the 300-400mm range make capturing portraits of larger birds and animals that are not timid reasonably easy.

These lenses have the magnification power to allow you to stand back and not frighten or disturb your subjects while still achieving pleasing images.

This image of baby egrets was captured with a 2x teleconverter stacked on top of a 300mm lens. Teleconverters come in different strengths and will increase the magnification power of your main lens, although they decrease the light available to the camera and can also degrade image quality. For smaller subjects like these, you will want a lens of at least 500mm.

Macro Lenses

There are different types of "special effect" lens available, of which I find the macro lens to be the best investment, particularly for the nature photographer. I have an entire post dedicated to macro photography, so you can head over here to read it if you're interested.

In short, macro lenses produce true close-up images, making them indispensable for those of us interested in small.

I hope this has demystified the many lens choices available for the photography consumer, and that it has helped you identify which lenses you actually need.

So, what is your favorite lens? Let me know in the comments below!
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Bird Photography - Tips & Tricks & Unasked-for Advice

Due to exams, this week's post is rather belated. Whoops. Oh well, enjoy :)

My love of photography began with a simple, black Nikon point-and-shoot, and I immediately was unsatisfied with it. Earth-bound, its short focal length was a poor choice for capturing anything but the largest of subjects. I desired a telephoto lens desperately; I wanted to photograph birds.

Black Skimmer

However, birds can be challenging subjects for even experienced nature photographers. At the same time, the allure of dramatic photography is great, and these are animals that are worth the extra effort to photograph. 

So what would you tell me if I have never photographed birds before, but want to start?

As with many fields of photography, it's important that you begin with the correct equipment. You will need a telephoto lens and a tripod sturdy enough to support your gig. How long of a lens? Well, basically the longest one you can afford! You will need a lens in the range of 300-600mm. If you intend to shoot songbirds and other small species (or birds in flight from a distance), you'll want the 600mm glass. If you're more interested in photographing heavy water birds or large game birds, you can survive with a shorter lens. Don't forget you can purchase a teleconverter to increase your lens power if you want.

Snowy Egret

Okay, so let's say that I have an appropriate lens. Now what?

Well, you of course need a location to shoot. One of my favorite places is Anastasia State Park, but a quick google search should produce the best birding locations in your area. Try different areas, making sure to scout out several locations before you give up.

The other two considerations are season and time. Early morning is best for nature photography for many reasons. Not only are you shooting during the best lighting conditions, but you also are out at peak bird (and other animal) activity time. So your best bet of finding your subject is to get up early.

Yup, no one said that nature photography was easy.

Additionally, bird species will vary seasonally in your area. For example, winter is a very good time for bird photography in Florida as many migrants fly through on their way to South America. Do a little research about your local bird populations.

Wood Stork

Assuming, then, that I manage to wake up early enough for this, do you have any advice for actually photographing birds?

Well, yes. If you aren't familiar with shutter speed and aperture, you should read my Intro to Photography Part 1 and Part 2 articles before continuing. 

Okay, ready?

When you are shooting birds or other animals, you have to deal with the fact that your subject just doesn't care that you are photographing them. That's right - they don't give a damn if they ruin your shot by moving, or looking the other way, or generally being rude. What's that mean for you? You want a fast shutter speed so you can capture these rapidly-moving animals and avoid the dreaded motion blur. 

An easy way to ensure you are always shooting at the fastest shutter you can is to set your camera to "aperture priority." This setting means that you pick the aperture, and the camera's computer will automatically calculate the appropriate shutter speed for you. Keeping your lens "wide open" (setting it to the largest aperture) will allow you to shoot the fastest. This eliminates the problem of you fiddling with complicated settings while your subject flies away. Oops.

Ruddy Turnstone (Winter Plumage)

Final Considerations:

Please remember, that as a nature photographer, you are a visitor in someone else's home. Many species of animals are sensitive to human presence and encroachment. If your presence is causing an animal to change its behavior, you are too close. Please be respectful, have fun, and maybe learn something!

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